THE 4C THAT (ALMOST) BECAME A GT
Back at home in Germany, and ready to share with you my story on what it feels like to travel 4.000km in an Italian lightweight sports car over a 10 days period. A sports car that started to grow on me in a very unlikely role of a Gran Turismo vehicle too…
For the sixth time now, Patrick (@patrickstarfish156 on Instagram) and I started off south, towards the mountains, in our Alfas. We started our roadtrip individually from our respective homes - his in Trailsdorf, Bavaria, and mine in Spaichingen, Baden-Württemberg, and only teamed up later, on the shores of Lake Constance by the Austrian border. The purpose was the same this year as it was in the previous - our annual “Alpentour” (German for “tour through the Alps” or, more commonly known by it’s French name “Tour des Alpes”).
For all his tours Patrick’s only choice of car was his ever reliable 156 GTA sedan in Rosso Alfa, manufactured in 2002 (although he also has three different red Alfas to choose from in his garage). While I always changed my cars from year to year, this time I decided to take my 2015 4C Spider, also in Rosso Alfa - admittedly, originally not designed with such a grand tour in mind. Therefore I had to do some modifications first, to make it a comfortable yet sporty/fast ride for this long rally. This is a short glance back at our previous tours: Thrice with the 939 Spider (two instances of which shown), once as a pair of red 156 GTAs, once with the blue 147 GTA and now with the lightweight, mid-engine, RWD convertible:
These tweaks include coilovers from KW, type V3 Racing (formerly known as Competition), stronger anti-roll bars than it came equipped with (mind it's a pre-2016), a stage 1 ECU map in combination with a stage 3 TCT map from Pogea Racing, individual toe and camber adjustments using shims to significantly reduce tramlining, spacers for a nicer stance, a sleek carbon fibre boot lip from Koshi, some more CF parts for styling purposes mainly in the interior but also real CF / stainless steel tail pieces from Pogea replacing the stock chrome ones, sticky Michelin Cup 2 semi-slick tyres, a subtle yet powerful hi-fi system (~1,000W Hertz amplifier on custom-made aluminium carrier and an Audison subwoofer, both from Italy, plus a modern Pioneer DAB radio) to entertain me with streamed music on long transits. Next big mod: To upholster the dashboard, door panels and centre console in Alcantara - a choice of material not available from Alfa.
Initially planned to be a 6-days-tour, we decided to add some days at the beginning that would allow us to drive in the Mille Miglia (leg 4, Cervia to Parma, flowing in regular traffic) and also attend an anniversary that was dear to our hearts - Alfa Romeo's 115th. What an exciting time ahead.
I started with a big grin on my face. Was it still there after 10 days of hard driving? Read on for how this went and felt…
Day 1: km 0 > km 740 // Spaichingen/Trailsdorf to Cervia
Smelling the odour of the Mille Miglia for the first time.
Rendezvous with Patrick and his Rosso Alfa 156 GTA at the Austrian border, then swiftly crossing Switzerland on ever-boring motorways at more or less constant 120 kph, my co-driver Marius used himself to commuting on these roads between Germany and Italy, this time only doing some sightseeing for a chance. What followed, mainly idling patiently in traffic jams on Italian motorways under a relentless sun (35+ degrees). We arrived late in Cervia but still stumbled into the Mille Miglia Alfa Romeo participants in front of their selected hotel downtown Milano Marittima (see below, Spider was in good company). Even if it was close to midnight we still enjoyed our first pizza while watching late arrivals of participating cars and casually cruising classic cars worth millions, as if it was the most normal thing on Earth - simply amazing what an atmosphere and spirit the Mille Miglia brings to town. And that smell of burnt petrol and soft-boiled tyres mixing with the salty breeze of the Adriatic, simply intoxicating!
MM shots courtesy of Ondrej Kroutil.
Day 2: km 740 -> km 1,200 // Cervia to Parma
Bathing in two seas and mingling with the classics.
We started the day by dipping in the Adriatic Sea at 6 am (it was already warm) and then enjoying the typical Italian breakfast consisting of a cornetto and cappuccino at a beach bar, then quickly hitting the road to catch up with the MM cars that started leaving town at 5 AM already. We did catch up after an hour or so and got to enjoy driving right inside the main field of participants, with a small anecdote to fondly remember: the drivers of a Mercedes SL “Gullwing” that was driving behind us for a stretch of the road took the opportunity of a red traffic light to jump out of the car and come forward asking me all sorts of questions about my 4C Spider - so he found out about the Alfa’s superb handling, plus some specs and pieces of Alfisti trivia provided to this fine gentleman. We stopped in Livorno and went straight to sea accomplishing a very unlikely challenge: one swim on the East coast of Italy and one on the West Coast, all within the same day! We took a shortcut by taking in the Autostrada to Parma, just because we wanted to be sure that we’ll get to welcome all the MM cars, and to our very pleasant surprise our accommodation for the night was right where the magic happens in the old town of Parma, on the street were the arriving cars started to align. It was so cool to just mix with the crowds of locals, tourists and the Mille Miglia drivers, chatting with complete strangers about the 4C and providing them with the photo backdrop they were so keen to have - casually parked on a side street nearby the MM circus.
Day 3: km 1,200 -> 1,470km // Parma to Milan
Just to set foot on the holy grounds of the Alfa Romeo Museum the following day
We parted ways with the MM that was heading towards Brescia. The great automotive show that began five days earlier ended with Alfa Romeo winning the first three places, as we continued exploring the old town of Parma and obviously enjoying some local prosciutto. We headed North towards Milan to attend a very special birthday the next day at Arese, but since we were at it, we skipped the Milano exit and made a detour to Lago Maggiore - we just had to cool off in the lake’s water too! Leaving the cars parked in Arona by the shore resulted in being the usual attraction point to which we have already become used to. Although we had our hotel for the night in the Fiera area, you can be sure to always find a good traditional trattoria in Milan, no matter where you are.
Day 4: km 1,470 -> km 1,820 // Milan to Évian-les-Bains
There's only Alfa in our heads (and our hearts ❤️)
The day of the days. We are attending the 115th anniversary of Alfa Romeo, the brand we all love so much. But first: Picking up our photo- and videographer Sabin (who flew in from Romania just for the event) at the Milan central station and immediately assigning him with his first task: Photo shoot with our cars parked in one of the most iconic places there is for the devout Alfista - right in front of the Milan Cathedral (Duomo di Milano). What a scenery, what shots! Then onto Arese, Museo Storico Alfa Romeo where our day was becoming ever more exciting, enjoying the company of a couple hundred Alfisti from across Europe and their beautiful Alfa Romeos - 115 different models of which made it into the "flashmob", so basically a proud Alfisti parade on the Museum’s own circuit. The 4C was part of it, serving as the dash in the 2nd 'A' of 'Alfa Romeo 115' when cars where guided precisely into parking positions forming that text when looked at from atop (drone shot below). After this celebrating moment we parted ways with Marius and myself with Patrick heading to the Alps in a now even lighter 4C. First stop in France, on the shores of Lake Geneva, c'est très joli! Most importantly, a scenic drive through the Aosta valley to get us there and taking the San Bernardino tunnel, reduced to one lane at the time, had us arrive late, but the roads were empty at least - one has to just go low-key in Switzerland anyway...
Duomo Milano shots courtesy of Sabin Orasanu; Alfa Romeo 115th drone shot by Luca Danilo Orsi.
Day 5: km 1,820 -> km 1,820 // Évian-les-Bains
Pauses are for drivers and for cars
Taking a pause from driving and refilling our anatomical batteries as we had booked two nights in Évian-les-Bains (where the famous mineral water comes from) at Lake Geneva. So, we got to do what our tours are mainly designed for, other than driving: swimming in fresh, crystal-clear water and savouring local food and drinks. What a beautiful and quiet place this is - good for my race exhaust-tortured ears, good for the cars to cool off a bit. The early summer heat was still ever-present. Evian served us not only for recreation, though - it also was the originally designated start of this year's Alpentour had we not jumped on the Mille Miglia & Alfa Romeo 115th anniversary bandwagon with Marius. (Well, more precisely Thonon-les-Bains was, the official start of the Route des Grandes Alpes, but that's just next town). We couldn't wait…!
Day 6: km 1,820 -> km 2,140 // Thonon-les-Bains to Valloire
Where the real driving started and the magic happened
Our entry of the Route des Grandes Alpes - the 700 odd kilometres of mountain roads consisting of no less than 21 passes - needless to say, we were very excited! But before hitting the first mountain pass we quickly paid the town of Sallanches by the Mont Blanc a short visit (it's the partner city of my current home town Spaichingen). A nice place all around, driving the couple of kilometres back to Cluses and finally hitting the Route des Grandes Alpes, first mountain pass “Col de la Colombière”. What an experience, these passes, the scenery. Eye candy. The landscape, the very light traffic and the condition of the tarmac were simply a blast - so much better than what we had been familiar with from the other six Alpine countries. And what beautiful mountains the French have there, with the highest pass altitude at 2.770m - one for the photo book (see below). We drove through six out of 14 main passes on the first day, with the last of the day being “Col du Telegraphe”, to arrive in the evening at Valloire where we stayed overnight, halfway along the Route. Both cars were performing exceptionally well despite temperatures easily exceeding 35 degrees. Having put the new software of the 4C to the test big time, I am more than convinced of the advantages it provides: impressive acceleration with no clutch slips, no gearbox overheating, no more illogical gear selections, no excessive fuel consumption. As it happens on these routes, we were not the only ones indulging, so a small petrol talk ensued with an Alpine A110 driver from Switzerland staying at the same hotel. He had so many questions about the 4C, - as it turned out a very nice fellow petrolhead and lightweight addict. We tucked in for a short night just to have an early start with very few bikes on the passes the next day, and the plan really worked out well. We were lucky to have light traffic for the whole Route actually.
Day 7: km 2,140 -> km 2,480 // Valloire to Menton
Taking corners like a champ: fading-free brakes, light weight and a proper distribution - you just can’t fool physics.
Second leg of the Route des Grandes Alpes, beginning with the “Col du Galibier” that seamlessly flows into “Col du Lautaret” (the combo being my favourite of all passes), great pace, hot weather, driving open top and with the AC off (of course), base cap and sun glasses on - a so far unparalleled experience for both of us. We then teamed up with a French Porsche Club, about 8 of Zuffenhausen’s finest, and of course I made it my obligation to show them what the 4C has got in stock, they were very interested in specs, leaving them more than impressed by the little, red, Italian lightweight convertible with almost the same torque as a Cayman GT4 RS (440Nm vs 450Nm in the Porsche) and the weight and horsepower of an A110R (300HP). The car was performing perfect at any time, no issues at all, no warning lights or overheating, just zooming in and out of turns, the suspension swallowing most of the (fortunately few) nasty bumps, pot holes and dents. We started our descend back to the Mediterranean Sea, destination Monaco - long, stretched, winding roads that allow for progressing both swiftly and smoothly, great fun! But always mind the sheep - we had to let some 200 pass, (twice) on a narrow road, a really different type of car wash! Still, we arrived in Monte-Carlo at 7 PM and headed straight to the Port of Hercules, parking the cars in front of the yachts and superyachts for the mandatory pictures in this place that I like so much. We made it at the perfect time of day, with fine, warm light of a setting sun. Of course we couldn't let the opportunity pass unused to cruise by the Monte Carlo Casino and attract the puzzled but amazed looks of passers-by at the sight of these rare modern classics. In fact, we have never had so many people taking pictures of our cars than in the world capital of prosperity, home of superstars and hypercars. Our overnight stay was in Menton, the official end of the Route des Grandes Alpes, ask we were delighted by it. (Photo of me driving is from tamtam photos, one of the photo stations set up along the Route; https://www.tamtam-photo.com)
Day 8: km 2,490 -> km 2,680 // Menton to Genoa
The racer becomes a GT again and still feels and drives great.
Leaving Menton behind and cruising along the scenic Italian coast (Menton is at the border of France and Italy), through the city of Ventimiglia we had so many eyes on us again. We stopped at Arma di Taggia for a quick dip in the sea and after enjoying the baguette and cheese we brought from France to Italy (what a blasphemy, I know, it was delicious though) we took the motorway to Genoa as the temperature was already scratching the 40-degree-mark again and because we were really keen to get an early start at exploring that city. And so we did, exploring Genoa and its massive harbour with the ferry terminals we knew from past holidays and the old town. The local surprise? We were astonished by the hundreds of youngsters gathering around the ice cream parlour “Gelatitalia”… you read that right, not a disco or a night local, but an ice cream parlour, in the middle of the night! Suddenly felt really old so we returned to our hotel slightly frustrated about the state of the youths today. :)
Day 9: 2,680 -> km 3,140 // Genoa to Sankt Martin in Passeier
From sea, over lake to tender steak.
After an early morning dip in the Mediterranean at famous beach/cove of “Boccadasse” (dubbed 'Cinque Terre light' by our hotel receptionist), seawater, we headed back to the mountains, namely Sankt Martin in Passeier, South Tyrol. After passing Desenzano at Lake Garda we couldn't resist doing what we love, quickly alfa-parked our rides and took a second bath there, this time in fresh water, cooling off on another day of 37 degrees. Next short stop, of course, a quick visit of Cantina Tramin to take a picture in now-and-then-style of the 4C in the exact same spot I had parked its kind of chubby relative, the Spider 939 (‘Nuovo Spider), five years ago, savouring a half glass of local Gewürztraminer where it tastes best (of course, never drink and drive but if you do, drink responsibly). We continued driving north to get to our accommodation and having a delicious dinner in our place of destination, Sankt Martin in Passeier
Day 10: km 3,140 -> km 3,800 // Sankt Martin to Spaichingen/Trailsdorf
Alfa meets nearby are compulsory!
The last day of our journey came with another highlight: coincidentally, Saturday 28 June was the day of the 9th International Alfa Romeo Meet of Scuderia Alfa Romeo Tirol in the Zillertal Arena in Zell am Ziller, Tyrol, Austria. After an early start and a short breakfast on the go, we tackled the last mountain pass of our tour, “Jaufenpass” or “Passo di Monte Giovo”, northbound from Sankt Martin in Passeier to Sterzing (Vipiteno) and, what can I say: yes, it was pretty much free of traffic, but the joy was significantly damped by what bad condition the road is in, especially down from the top at 2.094m - it's far from what we experienced in France and should really be fixed, not even the V3R coilovers liked that. Anyway, onto Alfa meet Tyrol, the weather was getting better at around noon time and we could enjoy the view of an estimated 120 lovely Alfa Romeos and their proud owners, petrol talks ensured. There was only one other 4C, a coupé - an ongoing theme of our tour: such an exotic car, you just don't get to see others in normal traffic (I mean, if there's not an Alfa meet or 115th anniversary around). The obligatory dip in Lake Tegernsee to cool off and finish this thing off - you might have seen a pattern in the meantime. After reaching Munich, Patrick's and my ways parted with him heading North to his home and me South-West to mine, along my dear Lake Constance.
And then…back home!
After about 4.000km (200 of which I can't retrace in the route planner anymore but that we did travel according to the car’s odometer), in 10 days, I reached Spaichingen, my home and the base of Le Tre Rosse (@le_tre_rosse on Instagram and Facebook).
What a journey that was: seeing and feeling the spirit of the Mille Miglia, first-hand, attending a huge festive Alfa Romeo anniversary (here’s to the next 5 years 🥂), taking the Route des Grandes Alpes for the first time (but not the last), becoming one with that beautiful but mean little machine the 4C is, seeing my buddy and his 156 GTA delivering a performance that is more than impressive for a 23-year-old car and, most importantly, proving that with some tweaks to the 4C it is a serious competitor on the grand tour and has almost become a GT - and what a reliable one: zero flaws, just start the engine (waking up the neighbours) and drive - quod erat demonstrandum - mission accomplished!
What I was very pleased to see throughout this grand tour is how much love and admiration this car still receives, particularly in Italy and Monaco - trust me, it was a show stopper everywhere we went!
So, why did I say it almost became a GT?
There's three main things for me:
First: The seats aren't designed for the long journey, plus I'm relatively tall (1.87m), so I will be looking for a sporty yet comfy alternative seating solution, and there’s an idea in my mind already...
Second: The noise - Yes, I want it loud, but constantly having 105dB on your ears for ~400km per day was a bit too much after all, even for me, especially under load. The exhaust's gonna remain of course, but ear plugs are always on-board now.
Third: Lastly, you expected it: luggage space is an issue we can’t neglect. I was so happy to have the 156 available to carry some of my stuff, it made my 4C lighter too. On the other hand, I returned home with all the luggage in the car and it would have worked too for the whole tour - I kind of suppose, at least. But probably stuff would have flown around in the cockpit, and that's a big no-no for me when seriously hitting the road. My initial solution for this was removing the passenger seat, with straps added to the seat's mounting holes, thus save weight and in the same go making more space - but with Marius as a passenger that plan fell.
At the end of the day, the 4C remains a fully-fledged lightweight sports car and that's what it's supposed to be. And exactly so it is for me. Because this is the reason I bought it for. And it’s exactly for this precise reason that I love it for too.
However, I thought, why not put it to the test on the long haul? I am not criticising it for things it can't do, like thighs that it has never been intended to do. My intention rather was to see what else it's got in stock - and of that there's a lot. In fact, I would have never thought about calling it anything like a GT before, the association just sprang to mind when I returned home after such a long trip with my back still in one piece and the biggest grin still present on my face. There you have it.
This will have not been the last time using it in this way, simply because now I need to know what the Route des Grandes Alpes feels like going northbound.
Come back here next year around this time and I’ll be happy to report on it!
Many thanks to:
Patrick and his 156 for being such good companions
Marius for being the mission specialist and event planner for the Mille Miglia and Alfa Romeo anniversary.
The whole crew of Alfattitude on-site at the Museo Storico producing great content as ever under the scorching sun.
Tobias (@tobi147gta on Instagram) for his help with making this build.
Last but not least my girl Domi for bravely coping with the fear of me not returning. Of course I had to return, to start planning for next year’s tour!
Route Des Grandes Alpes gallery by Simon Weniger.
